Perry,
I have had 35mm cameras forever (since 1967) - Nikon rangefinders, Leica
rangefinders, NIkon FTns, all sorts of lenses, Horseman tehcnical view
camera, Hassleblad, Sinar F Pro 4x5 etc - all kinds of stuff. But digital
just makes things easier.
When I made the transition to digital in 2000, I paid nearly $700 for a Sony
advanced point and shoot - the F515. Zeiss 5x zoom and 2.6 mp. It was fun,
but anything larger than 11x14 lacked image quality, and for all intents and
purposes the max iso was 100 - everything else was too noisy. I later
upgraged that to their 717, similar setup but 5 mp. Better but still not
what I was looking for.
In 2005 I bought a film scanner and started to scan my negatives and slides,
but the technology was not quite there yet - it was slow, and I started to
see the weaknesses in the process. Anything faster than Velvia was too
grainy, even though you could still process away the noise in Photoshop, you
had some hard limits on image size.
In 2007 I bought a brand new D200 and a 18-200mm lens for $2200. Best
decision I ever made. Since then I have acquired an 80-200 AF-ED (used -
$575), and some used Sigma glass - 150 macro ($500), 10-20 ($375), 18-50
F2.8 ($350), and a 50-500 ($600). I added a used D300 body that I purchased
for $900. As you can see, with some careful purchasing you can get what you
need and still stay within budget.These sigma lenses are all their EX
series, intended to have better construction and to be a little more robust
than their cheap stuff - and I can attest to their sharpness and image
quality. Not the ideal, but certainly workable.
Although the D7000 is a nice body, it is considered a prosumer camera as
opposed to a entry-level pro body. Weather and dust sealing, internal
magnesium frame and other features make them better suited for hard use. The
same is true of their lenses - any of Nikon's full frame lenses will have
better construction than the consumer level products. With a pro lens you
can deal with a light drizzle without having to fear a short-circuit in your
camera or lens. you can always buy a waterproof housing if you anticipate
dunking the camera.
If you care to visit my website - www.gyphotoworks.com you can see some of
the results I get with this gear.
_____
From: artshow_photo@yahoogroups.com [mailto:artshow_photo@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Perry Conley
Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 10:16 PM
To: artshow photo
Subject: Re: [artshow_photo] Camera Investment?????
Thank you Gene, that makes total sense. Maybe I should just love my old
Nikons and Mamyias for what they are. They sure earned their keep. I can't
believe how much easier the prices are now. I think I paid $1200 for the
80-200.
I love the new technology.
perry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene Lugo" <gene51@optonline.net <mailto:gene51%40optonline.net> >
To: "artshow photo" <artshow_photo@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:artshow_photo%40yahoogroups.com> >
Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 5:04:22 PM
Subject: RE: [artshow_photo] Camera Investment?????
Perry,
If you are contemplating using older film lenses with digital bodies, aside
from the physical and electronic compatibility, there are other issues you
should probably consider.
Lens made in the good old days were optimized for film, where design
decisions were made by lens mfgrs to optimize certain qualities often at the
expense of others. Chromatic abberation, distortion and light falloff were
fairly important, and since 35 mm film had certain hard limits as far as
resolution and ability to capture and render detail, they could sacrifice
some lens resolution. The current crop of digital cameras can eat up all the
resolution you can throw at them, and you can deal with contrast, sharpness,
light falloff, CA and distortion fairly easily in post processing.
Another consideration is handling. These days 5-8 frames per second is the
new norm, autofocus systems in the cameras are very sophisticated and
provide many options for customizing how the camera will behave, and lenses
are now designed with shorter focusing ramps, it is now possible to shoot
moving subjects by simply holding down the shutter and the majority if not
all of your images will be in focus. This is not possible with manual focus
lenses. Also, digital cameras lack the optical focusing aids of groundglass
screens with microprism areas and center split images. Its really hard to
acquire focus accurately when in manual mode.
You might want to take a look at:
http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html
His lens evaulations are on target, carefully and thoughtfully written, and
he has lots of manual glass in digital body evaluations. You are most likely
to find what you are looking for here.
I would suggest getting a used D200 for around $500 or a D300 for around
$900. If you decide to have the camera modded to change the focusing screen
so you can use older glass, or even if you just want something to try out in
the meantime until the D400 (or whatever they are going to call it) comes
out - its not a bad way to get involved. You can always sell the body for
close to what you paid for it.
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